MCCLELLAND BARCLAY JEWELRY: THE DETAILS

McClelland Barclay
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MCCLELLAND BARCLAY JEWELRY: THE DETAILS

By Patricia Gostick
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November 2006
©2006

The intent of this article is to study in detail the findings used by the Rice-Weiner Company in the production of McClelland Barclay jewelry between 1938 and 1943. I have written elsewhere about the different signatures and styles of McClelland's jewelry, so I will not be discussing those aspects here. If you are interested in reading about the signatures and styles of McClelland Barclay jewelry, please go to any of the following:

This article is based upon close inspection of my personal collection of more than 100 McClelland Barclay pieces, and of images of hundreds of online offerings over the past 8 years. I would also like to thank Elizabeth Kepner of Jewels by Liz and Judy Dunn of Judy's Exquisite Designer Jewelry, who generously shared photos of their McClelland Barclay jewelry. In fact, more than an article, this is a photo essay, because pictures do say it so well! And any eloquence in the final product is due to the beauty of Mac's jewelry and to Jennifer of Jennifer Lynn's Timeless Jewelry, who used her skills to match words and pictures so harmoniously.

I have categorized the clasps and chains according to the number of times that I have seen a particular style used. At the end of the article, I also include some examples of clasps and chains that are not original to the piece on which they are found. As I see new items in the future, I may have to revise my conclusions. But that is the fascinating part about collecting: the learning that never stops!

If this article adds in some small way to your knowledge of, and ability to identify McClelland Barclay jewelry, then it has served its purpose.

HANGTAGS:
Gold color with yellow string; on one side is written, "designed by McClelland Barclay", and on the reverse, "AMERICAN BEAUTY FASHION CREATION"

PLATING:
Gold and rhodium; gold plated jewelry is more common than rhodium plated

Courtesy of Judy's Exquisite Designer Jewelry

Courtesy of Judy's Exquisite Designer Jewelry

RHINESTONES:

Colors: Six colors were used: red, blue, green, purple, yellow and clear (alone or in combination)

Courtesy of Judy's Exquisite Designer Jewelry
Courtesy of Judy's Exquisite Designer Jewelry	Courtesy of Judy's Exquisite Designer Jewelry	Courtesy of Judy's Exquisite Designer Jewelry	Courtesy of Judy's Exquisite Designer Jewelry

Cuts: Art Deco style: baguettes (wide and narrow), emerald or square cut, tear or pear-shaped,; Art Moderne style: usually navettes, oval and round stones; chatons, for clear pave decoration in both styles

			Courtesy of Jewels by Liz
Courtesy of Judy's Exquisite Designer Jewelry	Courtesy of Judy's Exquisite Designer Jewelry	Courtesy of Judy's Exquisite Designer Jewelry

FINDINGS:

Earrings: All earrings are screwback (A), with the rare exception of the late sterling vermeil clip back type (B).

EXAMPLE A	EXAMPLE A
EXAMPLE B	EXAMPLE B	EXAMPLE B

Brooches: Safety catch

Clips: Dress clip type: plain with holes in the back (A), Fur pin/clip type: 2 prongs curved at the end (B)

EXAMPLE A	EXAMPLE A	EXAMPLE A
EXAMPLE B	EXAMPLE B	EXAMPLE B

NECKLACES AND BRACELETS:

CLASPS:
I have identified 5 main categories of fasteners used in McClelland Barclay necklaces and bracelets.

Foldover clasps: This is the most common type of clasp found on both necklaces and bracelets. The foldover clasp A) most often has a plain raised central section with striated sides, but it can also have B) a raised striated center and plain sides, or C) it can be unraised and plain. The width is generally .5 inches on bracelets and narrower on necklaces. In the bracelets, the foldover section is hinged and flexible and the catch is a fixed part of the final link (except in a late sterling vermeil bracelet, where it is attached to the final link by jump rings.) In the necklaces, both the foldover section and the catch are attached to plates, which are attached to the ends of the necklace.

EXAMPLE A	EXAMPLE A	EXAMPLE A
EXAMPLE B	EXAMPLE B	EXAMPLE C

Hook & Eye: All sterling silver bracelets have a foldover "hook" that catches a bar or "eye" at the other end; the hook and eye are fixed, or part of the link construction.

McClelland Barclay Sterling Dove Bracelet

Sterling Fold-Over Hook Clasp Attachment

V-spring and box clasp: All of the cuff and bangle bracelets, as well as the pave maple leaf bracelet, have a push-in mechanism that consists of a V- shaped spring that is pushed into a slotted box. The cuff bracelets have a raised piece to open and close the bracelet, and the others have a small knob to do this. Please note that safety chains are only found on a few bangle bracelet designs: those which are not as wide as the cuff bracelets

Courtesy of Judy's Exquisite Designer Jewelry

Spring ring: I have seen a simple spring ring clasp used occasionally on some later sterling vermeil necklaces. This example has had the gold wash removed.

McClelland Barclay Sterling Vermeil Necklace

Fancy closures: Rhinestones on the clasp (maple leaf pendant and bracelet), floral plates (maple leaf pendant, an Art Deco necklace)


Courtesy of Jewels by Liz	Courtesy of Judy's Exquisite Designer Jewelry

CHAINS:
I have identified 5 main categories of chains used in McClelland Barclay necklaces.

Ring and flat band: Rings alternate with flat, chunky bands or links. This type of chain is found on many Art Deco necklaces and pendants.

Courtesy of Judy's Exquisite Designer Jewelry

Courtesy of Jewels by Liz

"Ladder" link: Found on some Art Deco necklaces.

Open Rectangle Links: Open rectangles joined by vertical bands: found, with slight variations, on some Art Deco necklaces, multi chain Art Nouveau necklaces and on the "Wings" necklace.